What is Hair Porosity and Why It Matters for Type 3 & 4 Hair

If you’re a young Black girl with type 3 or type 4 hair, you know that keeping your curls and coils healthy can sometimes feel like a full-time job. But did you know that a lot of your hair challenges like dryness, breakage, frizz can actually be linked to hair porosity?

Understanding hair porosity is a game-changer. It helps you choose the right products, maintain moisture, and achieve the healthiest, most defined curls possible. Let’s dive into what hair porosity is, how it affects type 3 and 4 hair, and what you can do about it.

What is Hair Porosity?

Hair porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. Think of it like a sponge. Some sponges soak up water quickly but let it drip out just as fast, while others resist water but hold it well once it’s absorbed. Your hair works the same way.

Hair porosity is determined by the cuticle layer of your hair: the outer protective layer made up of overlapping scales.

There are three main types of hair porosity:

1. Low Porosity (Tight Cuticles)

   • Hair is resistant to moisture.

   • Products tend to sit on the hair rather than absorb.

   • Takes longer to process color or treatments.

2. Medium/Normal Porosity (Slightly Raised Cuticles)

   • Hair absorbs and retains moisture easily.

   • Usually healthy and manageable.

3. High Porosity (Open/Damaged Cuticles)

   • Hair absorbs moisture quickly but loses it just as fast.

   • Prone to dryness, frizz, and breakage.

Why Hair Porosity Matters for Type 3 & 4 Hair

Type 3 (curly) and type 4 (coily/kinky) hair is naturally drier because the scalp’s oils have a harder time traveling down twists and coils. Knowing your hair porosity helps you:

• Choose the right moisturizers and oils

• Prevent dryness and breakage

• Maintain length and hair health

• Enhance curl definition

Without this knowledge, even the best products can feel like they’re “not working” for your hair.

How to Test Your Hair Porosity

Here are a couple of simple methods you can try at home:

1. The Float Test

• Place a clean strand of hair in a bowl of water.

• Floats for a long time: Low porosity

• Sinks slowly: Medium porosity

• Sinks quickly: High porosity

2. The Slip ‘n’ Slide Test

• Slide your fingers along a strand from root to tip.

• Smooth: Low porosity

• Slightly rough: Medium porosity

• Very rough: High porosity

Caring for Different Porosity Levels

Low Porosity Hair

• Use lightweight oils like argan or grapeseed.

• Apply heat (like warm water or a steamer) to help products penetrate.

• Avoid heavy butters that sit on the hair.

Medium Porosity Hair

• Maintain a balance of protein and moisture.

• Use leave-in conditioners and moisturizing creams.

• Protective styles help retain length without stressing your hair.

High Porosity Hair

• Use heavy creams, butters, and oils to lock in moisture.

• Apply leave-in conditioner on damp hair, then seal with oil.

• Consider protein treatments to strengthen fragile strands.

• Minimize heat and chemical treatments.

Final Tips for Healthy Type 3 & 4 Hair

• Moisture is key: Layer water → leave-in → cream → oil for best results.

• Protect your hair: Use satin pillowcases and protective styles.

• Listen to your hair: Porosity can change over time or with treatments.

• Consistency matters: Daily hydration and weekly deep conditioning work wonders.

By understanding your hair porosity, you can finally take control of your curls and coils, keeping them moisturized, strong, and full of life.